Porsche parts catalog web page

Porsche Genuine Parts Catalog web site.

More setting mixture, with dwell meter

This thread confusing mixture and timing adjustments has more info on setting the mixture. Info on reading a dwell meter to check. But still where is the test port?
A thread Mixture Adjustment Confirmation yet more info on details of checking mixture with dwell meter.

Setting mixture another method

This thread http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showthread.php?t=437101&highlight=CIS+rich has this info on setting mixture.
"right to richen (CW). always turn it from lean to rich for final adjustment. if you do not have a way to check CO, here is how i set mine. turn it CW until it surges at idle then back off a tad. blip the throttle and if the RPM's dip down then come back up to idle, it is too rich. turn it CCW about half a turn then back CW a little less than how far you turned it CCW. blip the throttle again. repeat until it no longer dips down when the RPM's come back down. mine is set so it has just a hint of wanting to dip down when i let off the gas. drive it and check again. i later had mine checked and it was dead on 3%." by T77911S
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DIY heater back date

DIY info on make your own block off for the heater back date

Targa top adjustment

A thread on adjusting Targa top

CIS mixture adjustment method

This post Its time again! on page 6 has info on the push/pull method, and on checking the AAV. Air leak, pull the valve off, plug the hoses, does that make any difference. Free up the inside of the valve itself.

Making new plug wires.

CIS mixture adjustment method

Adjusting idle mixture, by Souk, the push/pull method

AAR info

Info on the AAR valve at AAR Revisited

and another AAR related When warm my AAR closes, not sure what the AAV is doing - (look for lots of pics)

And another Bad Auxillary Air Valve?? Says AAV but talks about the AAR and has a photo that points out the location of the various pieces from the back side (toward the front of the car).

CIS more checking info

This post 81 SC died and will turn over & fire but not start has some more info on checking settings, particular failure when warm. With a nice short check list from Lorenfb.


"The AAV is a vacuum-operated valve working in conjunction with the AAR."

All three valves (AAR, AAV, DECEL) provide parallel vacuum sources
bypassing the throttle butterfly:

1. The AAR's function controls fast idle during warmup, i.e. a steady-state
idle affected by engine temp and time.
Problems:
a. Low idle at cold start - valve stuck (closed)
b. High idle at warm engine - valve stuck (open), or no 12 volts
2. The AAV's function provides additional air during starting (zero/low vacuum),
i.e. both cold & warm starting, causing a momentary fast idle.
Problems:
a. High idle - valve stuck (open)
b. No momentary fast idle at startup - valve stuck (closed)
3. The DECL's function is to control the rate of change of RPMs to prevent
idle undershoot and to reduce emissions (HCs) during decel.
Problems:
a. High idle - valve stuck (open)
b. Idle undershoot or engine dies on decel - no small vacuum line, stuck valve (closed)

Cold Start info

Cold start info "Do I have a fuel problem?"

and this link 81 911 Cis-k test question


and another thread Cold Start Issue describing checking for cold start problems.

CIS Primer for Posche

Link to the CIS Primer For Porsche

Info on how to test the CDI box at the C8 terminals in the post CDI whining, new coil, but no spark from coil

Some more info here coil to buy question info on what kind of coil to get, but also has details on doing the green wire fix. Wish I had found this post before doing mine, I almost did it the same way.

SC fuel pump problems info on checking electrical connections.

Clean and service distributor

Clean and service distributor


and some info on finding top dead center



A post on timing, this post describes how to find TDC on cylinder 1 on compression to make sure the distributor is in the right location.


Info on timing, and mixture adjustment

More info on the green wire, also a tip on checking the wiring through the firewall under the dash, seems these can come loose and cause similar electrical problems.

Although I have checked the wire (ohm meter should have read 600ohm, but was 1, must be touching)

3 911 SC died won't restart

Timing software, this is a windows program for slotcars

Lap Timer 2000, Gregory Braun software

This link

6-pin SC/Turbo CDI unit repair documentation

Has more info on the green wire with more schematics.

8/10/2008

More info on the green wire fix

Pelican posts

in this  

The Green wire...

this info on making the splice

If you can find a new connector [VW or Porsche dealer, maybe] that plugs into the pickup coil connector at the distributor, and some RG-58 or RG-174 coax at Radio Shack ... you can attempt building a replacement. Putting reliable, secure connectors onto coax is a bit of an art ... we aren't talking about an 'F' connector for a TV!

The connection at the CDI unit requires uninsulated 0.25" Fastons to replace the ones you remove from the 6-pin connector ... again, not your typical connector on coax, but it is doable. To put ends on coax reliably, you need to strip back 2" - 3" of insulation, use a pen to force a hole in the braid -- enlarge the hole without tearing the wires in the braid, pull the center wire out through the hole, then pull out the braid to one side and twist so you have two stranded wires to terminate. Both ends of the coax need to be prepped this way.

My choice would be RG-180 Teflon-insulated coax, as the PVC sheath on RG-58 & RG-174 coax really isn't up to the underhood temps of a 911!

What you want to test for at pins #7 & #31d at the CDI connector [other end of green coax] is 600 Ohms resistance +/- 10% at room temp.